Sunday, September 27, 2009
Attithi Devo Bhava
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
India
My brain finally started to process what had happen the night before as I was getting ready to leave my room. I was scared to open the door even though my room wasn't any place I wanted to stay in for too long. I walked out of my hotel onto the street. The light of day showed what I had seen the night before, filth and crumbling buildings along cracked and broken streets full of smoking busses and trucks and motorcycles and rickshaws. The air was heavey and hot and smelled like nothing i've smelt before. I smelled it when I first stepped off the plane, and I've been smelling it ever since. A little girl no older than five ran to me begging for money and then another girl followed. A police officer yelled something at the girls and they ran off. I jumped in another rickshaw and went to the train station to take a train to central Chennai. On the train i started to feel dizzy and all of a sudden i was realizing what was happening around me. I was traveling through miles of slums. people on the train looked tired and sad, and stared at me. Its very hard to explain what i was feeling. many emotions came though me and i started to feel sick and scared. i was completely alone. I was overwhelmed by everything i could see and smell and feel. A mother and her three children boarded the train. the mother beat a pan with some sticks and the children did tricks and flips and danced to the noise. they looked miserable and hungry. i had to look away and i had the urge to cry and i felt nausous. When they had finished, one of the children, a girl, was poking my leg with one hand and holding out the other. I had my face burried in my arm holding onto the overhead railing with my eyes closed to keep from breaking down. I could have bought them all a huge meal and new cloths and would have cost me less than $20 but i just froze and tried to ignore and hide from it and i still feel horrible that i couldn't even aknowldge her. once i got off the train i just wandered in complete awe and disbelief. I walked down narrow streets piled with rotting vegtables and garbage and cows and goats and open store fronts crowed with ragged people buying and selling anything you could think of. We've all seen pictures of places like this, in school or in magazines or on tv. But you can't understand a fraction of the reality behind that until you are there in the middle of it, witnessing it with all your senses. Its very hard to comprehend even then.
For the rest of my first day in India, I hung out with this guy. His name is Vela. He drove me around in his rickshaw to all the sights in Chennai. He didn't speak much english but we chatted and drove around eating fresh peanuts and seeing the city. After dark, Vela took me to a bar to drink Indian beer and hang out with the locals before I had to board my overnight train out of Chennai.
Chennai beach. The second longest beach in the world. Probably the second dirtiest beach as well. The beach was lined with fishing boats and fishing gear and people bathing in the disgusting looking water. The first thing i saw walking out on the beach was a man urinating right in from of me. i'd seen someone do it earlier and i've seen it countless times since. its totaly acceptable to go when you got to go here apparently.
A common sight.
So i've been in India for a week. I feel like i'm learning things at an incredible rate. After the shock of the first day, i've started to notice the more subtle beautiful things here. Most people are actully very happy. Religion is hugely important here, there are temples or shines everywhere. And most people are very nice and helpfull, even though 90 percent of the time they are trying to get my money somehow. Everything is dirt cheap though. India can be a very hard place to be though, between trying to travel and finding my way around and seeing some horrible and sad things, I can feel it wearing me down.
Costs of day to day thing in USD:
city train fare - 8 cents
70 mile bus fare - $1.50
meal in a nice restaurant - $12
meal in a basic resturant - $1
1 litre of bottled water - 30 cents
16 hour train ride - $8
hotel room - $4 to $10
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